Classification

Adhesive interlinings can be classified into two types based on their adhesive performance: temporary adhesion and permanent adhesion.
According to the definition by the Adhesive Interlining Council of Japan, temporary adhesion is for temporary fixation required in the sewing process, and the adhesive strength is sufficient to prevent sewing slippage in the sewing process and to withstand handling during the process.
Therefore, if the necessary stitches are not applied by sewing thread, the garment will not endure use as a garment and will peel off.

Permanent adhesion, on the other hand, is the ability to maintain the adhesive performance of the interlining during the period of use and handling of the garment.
In this case, the conditions and frequency of washing and cleaning as well as the service life will vary depending on the outer material and the type of garment. In addition, the required adhesive performance cannot be obtained unless the conditions of adhesion are appropriate, so the term “permanent adhesion type” indicates this possibility, and whether the adhesion is permanent in practical use depends on the selection of interlining and setting and management of adhesion conditions.

Permanently bonded interlining is that which can maintain its adhesion against dry cleaning and washing.
Temporary adhesive interlining is a temporary fixing to facilitate sewing operations.

Types

Adhesives used for interlinings are mainly hot-melt type adhesives that soften upon heating to exhibit adhesive performance and harden and stabilize upon cooling. Currently, the following types of adhesives are mainly used.

1. polyamide-based
2. polyvinyl chloride-based
3. polyethylene
4. ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymers
5. polyester-based

Applications

 

TYPE	FEATURE	MAIN APPLICATIONS	ADHESION/ TEMPERATURE	DRY CLEANING	LAUNDERING-PROOF	REMARKS
POLYAMIDE	Wide range of　applications	All clothing (mainly dry cleaning)	120～160℃	Particularly outstanding	Not suitable for high-temperature washing machines	Low-temperature type (100～130℃) Also available in wash-resistant type, etc.
POLYVINYL CHLORIDE	Flexible adhesive texture	Clothing in general (especially thick fabrics)	130～160℃	Excellent	Excellent	Plasticized for use
HIGH-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE	Good washability and cleanability	Shirts (top fuse)	150～180℃	Excellent	Particularly excellent	Adhesion requires temperature and high-pressure
LOW-DENSITY POLYETHYLENE	Iron-on adhesion possible	Temporary bonding (work clothes, etc.)	130～160℃	Dissolve	Lack of durability	Stitching required
ETHYLENE VINYL ACETATE POLYMER (EVA)	Iron-on adhesion possible	Temporary adhesion	120～150℃	Dissolve	Lack of durability	Stitching required
AGE-RELATED DEGENERATIVE EVA	Iron-on adhesion possible	Knit Clothing, Parts Core Tape	120～150℃	Durable	Durable	Dissolves in high temperature (>70°C) Berkeley
POLYESTER	Adheres well to polyester fibers	Polyester clothing (washable, etc.)	130～160℃	Slightly inferior for non-polyester fibers	Excellent